Wine used to feel like such a production. Poll the table, pick a bottle, hope it pairs well with all the food. Or, go it alone and commit to a glass from one of the corked, 2/3 full bottles standing like sentinels at the bar for who knows how long. But western wineries are starting to furnish restaurants with kegs of wine, for fresher wines by the glass (Oakland’s Chop Bar, pictured).
West winemakers are on a quest to make the universe a better place (the re-fillable kegs are eco!). Those in the rest of the country may simply shrug and order up a Sam Adams. But I’ll have a glass of the Cabernet.